Jamestowne


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Ladies' costumes were quite elaborate in that they were cut from hand-embroidered fabric, the skirt usually one color and the jacket another bright hue. Ruffs were smaller, and farthingales were, "out". Men of this period wore a falling linen collar edged with lace over a jerkin or jacket that came down to mid-hip. The sleeves of the jerkin were full and open-cut showing the sleeve of the shirt, so as not to interfere with the use of the sword. It should be noted here that during this period, almost all men carried swords, whether in military or civilian dress. A man's clothes had to be designed with that thought in mind. Trousers narrowed to self bands just below the knees and over the tops of hose. These bands were held in place by wide ribbons, usually fringed on the ends, called, "Venetians". The Cavalier wore a broad brimmed hat with the brim often tacked up on the left side over an extended plume. This on top of a head of long curls. Again, all clothing in extremely bright colors. Gloves were gauntlets. The Cavalier's lady wore a gown fitted with a tight bodice over a very full skirt. The neck opening was summer-cut or very wide and often featured an enormous lace collar that matched perfectly the cuffs on the full-length puffed sleeves. Her shoes were low-heeled and, again, tied with ribbons. Each season, she changed her outer wrap according to the temperature. In wet weather, she wore wooden clogs to protect her shoes from water and mud. Her hair was worn shoulder length in tightly curled ringlets at the sides and coiled at the back. Usually, she carried a fan while indoors and a parasol while out-of-doors. Gentlemen's fashions were nothing short of elegant and showed the great influence of the French court on the classes in England. The most prominent feature was the periwig or peruke, a very long, wide-bottomed wig with heavy curls. The men who wore these wigs cut short their own hair and sometimes shaved their heads. When not wearing the periwig, the gentleman wore an elaborate linen house cap. His periwig was kept on a head form on the dressing table. Wigs had to be sent out often to be rid of nits. Over the periwig, was worn a large hat, something akin to a tricorn, the brim filled with plumes. Our gentleman sported a wide lace bow at the neck, a long elaborately embroidered coat that came down almost to the knees, trousers something like the plus fours or knickers of two generations ago, silk hose that met the bottoms of the knickers, and mid-heeled shoes with bows at the tongues. Often the heels, usually wooden and chunky, were a different color from the rest of the shoe.
 * The men's garments of 1607 Jamestowne Island actually pre-date Phase One of 17c costume and probably are the most familiar. (Women did not come to Jamestowne until later.) In 1607, the men came ashore in Elizabethan clothing, the familiar garb worn by courtiers such as Sir Walter Raleigh. However, it was not long before these Elizabethan fashions were replaced by what have been labeled, "Jacobean" (after King James I) style, Phase One. It was a new reign, and fashion for men called for a high standing collar, baggy trunkhose (baggy, padded, short trousers) laced to long, embroidered stockings of very bright colors, fitted doublet (upper/torso half of the outfit), and roses on the shoes to hide the ties.

"The ladies", not to be outdone in this display of elegance, bedecked themselves in the finest brocades both winter and summer. To these frocks they attached much lace, feather plumes, etc. Hair was long and piled as high as possible on top of the head. Ornaments of flowers, birds and butterflies, and fruits were pinned to the hairdos. Over this high hairdo, a lace mantilla for windy days. ||